Closer to obtaining the IGP, for the 'Oli de Menorca' brand

Oil harvest of recent years. Photo: Josep Maria Quintana Archive.
Miriam Triay / Ciutadella – Menorca branded oil, produced in our house, this coming autumn will be able to take another step towards differentiation and quality. Can be marketed, from the 2024 campaign, with the IGP (protected geographical indication), 'Oli de Menorca' / 'Aceite de Menorca'. And, therefore, being able to identify the difference both in origin, quality and characteristics that this Menorcan local product presents.

"We will no longer have to identify the oil produced on the island as 'Aceite de España', we will be able to differentiate the specific region of origin of the product", says Josep Maria Quintana (Alaior, 1950), president of the Association of Menorca Oil Producers; in addition to being a renowned writer, and president of the Scientific Council of the Institut Menorquí d'Estudis (IME). From tFoodies on Menorca we were able to talk to him about the recent good news.

Last Monday, April 29, another step towards obtaining the IGP was announced... what can you tell us from the Association?
exactly The European Commission has not yet informed us that we have obtained the PGI as such. Although we suppose that in a few months we will be able to have it. What happened last April 29 is that we were granted transitional national protection in the IGP. It is a document that protects the IGP until the Commission registers it definitively.

And what does this imply?
That the 2024 campaign, from next autumn, will be able to carry the 'Oli de Menorca' label. Which, in the end, has been the fundamental objective, at all times, of Menorcan oil producers. Because, until now, we did not have a PGI, nor a DO (denomination of origin) - which would be a step further -, we had to indicate our oil as 'Aceite de España'. When we know that it has a series of characteristics that make it different from the oil that is produced, for example, in Andalusia.

Therefore, what we were interested in was to be able to have this category, more identifying and concrete, that would unify the characteristics that make Menorcan oil different from that of another place.

But to get here you had to go through a long process... what do you particularly remember about this one?
It is a struggle that we started, from the Association, several years ago. Although the last two have been the most significant and hard, in terms of work: meetings with quality control services, corrections in the submitted documentation... And it is quite a complicated struggle. Because, even if it is the European Commission that must grant this designation, before reaching it, a series of previous institutions must be passed; which would be both national and autonomous.

Really, it is the autonomous community that proposes that this PGI be granted. This involves the presentation of specific documentation, which must be reviewed and corrected, as indicated.

What is this documentation about? Can you give us examples?
What should be kept in mind is that the PGI is a quality seal awarded by the EU, which emerged in 1992, which identifies a food product as belonging to a specific place, region or country (1), with specific characteristics and a certain quality (2), as well as having a reputation, both ancient and modern (3). Therefore, this badge is only given to food products that can demonstrate these points.

From the Association we had to search for the elements that could define us, answering the three points mentioned. In terms of the modern reputation it was relatively simple, because there are already starting to have reviews from renowned restaurants, we have won awards at an international level... but in terms of the old reputation, it was more complicated. Among other things, because Menorca had never been an oil producing power, but we had to show that oil had always been produced. One of the things we found, and which allowed us to prove it, was the criticism made by Archduke Salvador, in his book on the Balearic Islands, referring to Menorca. Where he explained that the oil here was of high quality.

Then, we also had to analyze the characteristics of the oil. What was it that could differentiate it from the rest? Basically, Menorcan oil is harvested in a very early stage of maturation. It has little pigment. And it grinds much more quickly after picking it up. In addition, it is done with specific mechanical procedures, and with a low temperature that cannot exceed 27 degrees. This allows the production of oils with a very low acidity, and with a very low content of peroxides. Therefore, the oil that we distinguish as Menorcan will have to be harvested very green, and this means that we will have harvests that are low in quantity, but high in quality. And it will have a very important fruity flavor. A low bitterness, and a consistent spiciness index. With an acidity lower than 0.5. Because we are making an extra virgin olive oil.

And finally, a feature that was not requested as such, but which we considered relevant is that the extra virgin olive oil must be organic. That Menorcan productions are organic, if they want the IGP distinction. The fact that we have introduced this attribute to our oil means that it will be the first product with PGI in Spain that will be made in an ecological way. And from the Association we believe that it was an important requirement, necessary, and linked to the Menorca Biosphere Reserve concept. Very identifying.

And for producers who are not yet organic, the distinction will not be possible?
Let's see, the characteristic indicates that you must either already be ecological, or you must be in the process of conversion. In the end, you are not considered ecological until you have completed three years of practice in this regard. The first year in which a producer decides to start the conversion, he will be able to opt for the PGI. Although its oil cannot be called 'organic' until three years have passed; you can now use the name 'Oli de Menorca'.

Now that you have obtained this transitory protection, what will it mean for the oil and for the 22 producers in Menorca?
It is a quality brand. It will mean the possibility of entering wider markets. Because people are looking for a lot of quality nowadays. It will also justify the prices we put on our oils. Which are quite high, because the type of production we do is expensive and small. And this is also a sign of the quality of our product, one that should help us gain more prestige.

We assume that just as DO has done a lot for cheese, PGI will help oil a lot. To go out to markets still unexplored by us. And to be able to demonstrate the value of what we do.

Does it make any difference to have the transitional protection instead of the IGP as such, or is it the same in effect?
In effect it will be the same. This is what the minister for Agriculture, Fisheries and the Natural Environment, John Simonet, and the general director of Agri-Food Quality and Local Product, Joan Llabrés, told us. In the end, we have been granted this protection to help us while we wait for the final IGP. But hey, it's likely to be resolved within this year. Now we just have to wait. At the moment, the 2024 campaign can be entirely 'Oli de Menorca'.