Forn del Ranxo: The Resilience of the Wood-Fired Oven

Miriam Triay/Ciutadella - Forn del Ranxo has been serving the city and the people of Menorca for more than eight decades. It began with the constant commitment of Josep Capó Riudavets, the founder. It has continued with the innovation and adaptation, without losing sight of the essence, of Tònia Moll Capó and Jesús Portella, the current owners. Born after the founder and daughter of the second generation to lead the business, Juana Mari Capó, Tònia tells us the memories of a historic bakery.

When was the bakery that has served several generations of Ciutadella residents born?

It was born when my grandfather, Josep Capó, wanted to dedicate himself to that business. But those were different times, and at that time Ciutadella already had the maximum number of bakeries allowed. So, he began, in this world, making bread for the quartermaster soldiers. Until 1942, they obtained the permit, and together with my grandmother, Tònia Monjo Genestar, they were able to make and sell the town's typical products.

When they decided to retire, the business passed into the hands of my mother, Juana Maria Capó. I mean, I practically grew up within these walls, watching the bakery in operation. So, when my mother wanted to retire, about ten years ago, I didn't think twice. And together with Jesús, we took over the family business.

And in all these years that the bakery has been open, especially in the last ten years that you've been at the helm, what evolution can you observe?

In no way has the traditional product, the one that was there before, been lost. In reality, we wouldn't have wanted to evolve, in the sense of maintaining the essence of the typical product, the one from here. However, these are factors and changes beyond our control. We're referring to the evolution of the same product from here, like cheese, which is different now. Or public demand, which seeks more variety than previously offered, leading us to expand our offerings. Among others.

Could you give some examples of this expansion?

Well, for example, in the case of the typical cocas here, there used to be savory ones: tomato, sofrito, and pepper; and sweet ones: apricot and sobrasada. Now there's also coca with escalibada, pine nuts and cream, or zucchini, leeks, ham, and cheese. This is also seen in empanadas; now we make them with cuttlefish with peas or chicken curry; and in the bread rolls, which used to be made with sobrasada, now we also make them with chocolate, sausage, ham, and cheese...

We've been expanding our typical food and local products to meet current demand. However, we've always maintained what we've always done.

As far as we know, they have one of the last wood-fired ovens in Menorca in operation.

Yes, we still maintain it. And from what we've been told, it's one of the few still standing and working.

Ultimately, these are ovens that are many years old and have been in operation for a long time. Nowadays, any breakdowns they may have stop them from working for a while. And often it's not worth it, it's not feasible.

And what has made it worth it for you? I mean, what would you say is the essence of a wood-fired oven?

The food turns out very different. Much more natural. It's harder to master than an electric oven, and you have to get the hang of it, but once you've got it, it's done. And it's worth learning how to use it because, as I said, the flavor of the cooked product is different. It's just like it was in the past.

Finally, do you have any future projects you'd like to pursue?

In principle, no, for several reasons. We'll keep the oven as it is. We've always had many ideas, such as opening stores in other parts of the city or the island, but the truth is, we're doing well as we are. We've always tried to maintain what we do best.

From what it was when Grandpa and Grandma owned it to what it is now, the bakery has changed in the most necessary ways. But it has always maintained its essence. We now offer a much wider variety of products. And we've been innovating and experimenting. Now the idea is to maintain that line of stability.

It has been a great honor to have the opportunity to continue operating the bakery that my grandparents painstakingly opened and maintain the quality of my ancestors. The truth is that although it has been a very demanding job, we have enjoyed it and continue to enjoy it.