The lamb protagonist of the Easter table

The gastronomy of Easter in Menorca revolves around lamb and its meat, as it was also in the main celebrations of the island, and it is also in the Passovers of the Jews and Muslims.

According to what Archduke Luis Salvador of Austria tells us in his “Die Insel Menorca”, at the beginning of the 19th century there were between 53,000 and 60,000 sheep on our island, which today can just exceed 15,000 more or less, since from the 40s of the last century, of the 20th century, Friesian cows were replacing sheep, just as the sites were dedicated to livestock, and not for the sale of meat, but for dairy production with the production of curd to sell to El Caserio and Coinga, and in the process produce Menorcan cheese, which in those years was practically dedicated to local consumption.

Lamb neck stew. Photo: Bep Al·lès ©

But the lambs, although in smaller quantities, continued to be preserved on the island and also the customs of the peasantry related to this biblical animal. In that agricultural and livestock-based society, the owner of the farm gave the local farmers a part of the lamb in the main celebrations, such as Christmas and Easter, in addition to the major festivals of the peasantry. Depending on the property and the owner's economy, they had the right to a quarter or a whole animal that they themselves chose from the herd, maintaining that order of hierarchy from oldest to youngest. This lamb, at Easter time, was taken from the property to the people, to their families, and with it the dishes of the gastronomy typical of the festivities were made, which in addition to the meat empanadas, were also made other dishes that are almost lost today, such as blood with onion, or fried blood accompanied by potatoes; or the braids, which are nothing other than the intestines of the lamb. Other dishes related to the use of the Easter lamb were panaderas, stews made with the necks and breast of the lamb. The lamb tripe or tripe was cooked with tomato sauce. They also made lamb broth, the ribs were baked with potatoes and tomato.

Menorcan lamb meat pies (empanadas). Photo: Bep Al·lès ©

But the real star of the Easter meal was the baked lamb, especially one of the legs and the shoulders. It also depended on the number of diners, since many times both thighs had to be used to make the empanadas.

Ruma lamb leg baked Menorcan style. Photo: Bep Al·lès ©

Baked lamb or baked leg of lamb was not only the food for Easter Sunday, but it was also the food of Christmas Day in the peasantry, as well as other celebrations such as San Antonio or Pentecost Easter, known popularly in Ciutadella as Cincogema.

Baked Menorcan lamb shoulder. Es Molí des Racó Restaurant. It's Mercadal. Photo: Bep Al·lès©
The leg was filled with pieces of pork bacon, sobrasada, garlic and olives. It was watered with white wine or brandy, and baked. It was accompanied by new potatoes or patatón also in the oven. Although before, the first dish that was served on the table was the offal of the lamb, which was also a dish of celebration and use, because in those years when the economy depended on good or bad vintages, everything was used and nothing it was spoiled. They even ate the heads, legs and tongue of the lamb.